March 14, 2008

Vacation

OK, I confess, I have slipped away for a vacation. I am writing this blog from under the neon lights of a Samuel Adams beer sign, in the bar of Boss Oysters in Apalachicola, Florida. I'm drinking a frozen concoction with tequila, and mango puree. I have left my husband and TEENAGE daughter at home and have traveled south with a buddy who also left her high maintenance family behind.

We have not been wild and crazy, we are just too old, but we have laughed till we cried and cried till we laughed.

This is my report (Menu Research and Development) of the oysters at Boss.

  • On the half shell, raw - dynamite
  • Steamed with butter - "Oh my God!" the best
  • On the half shell, with asparagus and cheese - OK, didn't like the asparagus, mushy
  • Oysters Rockefeller - good, but spinach with stringy
  • Japonoise, with wasabi and "roe" - weird, too weird

I am storing up my energy, and brain power for next week when we start a menu change at Babette's for spring.  This menu takes a few weeks to put together each year because the weather warms quickly but the spring produce is slow to catch up.  Have to go, we ordered another round of drinks

March 11, 2008

Weekend Update

Business was moderate Tuesday and Wednesday, slammed on Thursday, called in our hostess to help out.  Went beautifully.  Very slow Friday, very busy Saturday.  Crazy, crazy.

C's wife had a baby on Tuesday.  He was on vacation and got to spend the week with her and their new son.  R had an abscessed tooth and was out Friday through Sunday.  H got food poisoning from a fast food restaurant after a late night visit Friday night and missed Saturday.

Switch on the convection oven broke Friday morning.  My prep guy called me at home.  I had to come in to get the phone numbers of the repair people.  It was fixed by 2:00 but prep was way behind.  Tried to bake a cake in our regular oven for pickup at 5:00 PM.  Came out very dry.  Had to call the customer and tell him we needed time to remake it.  Customer agreed and we prepared for Saturday pickup.  Luckily it wasn't needed until Saturday. 

Point of sale system was not running reports.  Giving us database error reports.  Spent four days with customer support.  They kept fixing the problem but something in the overnight shut down was fouling up the data.  On day 5 it was determined that the new Sonic wall that had been installed was not installed properly on one terminal and was interfering with Norton Security.  Installer had to come out and remove Norton and reconfigure.  Working now.  New sonic wall is a new requirement for the tough credit card security compliance standards.

Server who had been with me for over two years left after working out his two week notice.  Hired and trained a new waiter. 

Worked some specials that we hope to put on the new menu. 

That's all!

January 31, 2008

Valentine's Day

If you want to get a restaurant staff laughing, call a day in advance for a Valentine's reservation.  And then get indignant when we tell you we will call you if anyone cancels.  What planet are you from?  VALENTINE'S DAY IS THE BIGGEST RESTAURANT NIGHT OF THE YEAR.

For prime time slots on Valentine's Day, be prepared to call around the middle of December.

January 20, 2008

Snow Days at a Restaurant

Do we open if it's snowing?  Is the weatherman correct?   Will we do enough business to pay for wages, food cost, utilities?   Will we have power?  Are we going to upset people by closing?    Will my deliveries be able to come in?  How will I keep my driveway clear and safe?  What do I do to the Handicap ramp to keep it safe?  Which employees will have the hardest and longest drives?  When exactly will the roads ice over? What temperature will it be at 11:30 when my staff has to drive home?  Can I afford to open, can I afford to close?  Are there special parties on the books?  What is my competition going to do?  What time do I make the decision?  Do I have my prep cooks cut back on production? How much should we cut back?  Do I have any perishables that I should send back with the delivery guys?  If I open, how much staff should I have on hand?  Should I close early?

It is such a battle. 

January 07, 2008

Rathbun's

All the hype, all the press and yes, it's terrific.  I grabbed a bite at the bar when it first opened and finally got to go back.   My husband thought it would be too stuffy and expensive and wouldn't go.  My girlfriends thought it would be too fattening and expensive and wouldn't go.   I dragged my daughter, yes dragged her; she's all about cheap Mexican fare. 

The hostesses were a little curt, but I am too when working the door on a very busy shift.    I don't know how much Kevin and Kurt pay them, but it can't be enough.  That is an incredibly important and thankless job, which is why I end up doing it often at Babette's.

I was very surprised by the prices.  They were very, very reasonable.  I had many small plates, my daughter had the marinated flank steak and we both devoured the mashed potatoes.  The small desserts were perfect.

Service was spot on.  Banquette and tables are a little close.  The men, handsome, quite handsome, at the next table were very close.  Lots of business people.

I did have to dress up.  My daughter had to dress up.  The only down side.

January 03, 2008

A Perfect New Year's Eve

   We had a terrific December, a record actually, and it was capped by a New Year's eve with nary a one NO-Show.  Yes, we had some last minute cancellations.  People do get sick after all, but each party called us and we were able to rebook their spots.  Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.  This is a restaurateur's dream night.  A couple of parties had to wait a bit after their reservation time and though they got a little restless, they were very kind to me and my staff.   

Thank you everyone!

Marla

December 14, 2007

Another Thursday

9:15 Arrive at restaurant and sprayed for bugs.  Bi-monthly treatment.  Change clothes.

9:30 My tournant, Mel arrives with another cook who came in on his day off to fix a leaking pipe under the dish table.  I surprised him when he said he had to go to the hardware store. I was able to bring up parts that I had stored in my basement.  Somewhere along the line I had replaced the faucet before, but kept some of the good sections.  This is a very important trick in this business.  It is like harvesting organs.  I have computer parts, table hardware, pipes, wood and believe it or not even a sink.  Of course the sink was from an incorrect shipment back in the summer.  You can read about that fiasco in the archives of this blog.

9:50  Mel and I are waiting on the oven repair person.  We can't use the convection oven until a small repair was made on it while the oven was still cool.  Funny, but the repair guys don't like sticking their head into a 500 degree oven.  The repair man comes at 10:00, but we have plenty of other things to work on in the meantime.

10:00  We have a lot of special orders going out this time of year from our Pantry.  While Mel starts with sauces and soups, I am making pie dough, almond dough, date pastries, ravioli.

10:30  The salad station cooler is making a funny noise, similar to the one it did when the compressor needed to be replaced.  That repair man comes in and finds that a menu has fallen behind the cooler and had been sucked up into the fan and was causing the disruption.  A five minute fix.  The man offers to not charge me, but I refuse.  We settle on a $75.00 trade and he is coming into dinner next week with his family.  Works for me, works for him.

11:00 I start making tarts; Cherry Tarts, Bacon and Onion Tart, Mushroom Tarts, Apple Tarts and more Mushroom Tarts for pickup later in the day.  Mel and I now have to coordinate prep for the oven because of the different cook times and temperatures and we are behind because of the oven repair.  I have two other ovens but they are not convection and when it comes to baking they are not an option unless absolutely necessary.

12:00 I call the coordinator for a party of 21 people who are coming at 6:30 with a suggestion that I move their party out onto our back deck.  It's is 71 degrees in Atlanta in December.  Crazy, but with the heaters we have out there they can have a private room, mill around, exchange gifts and get a little rowdy.  She jumps at the suggestion.  My staff had already arranged tables for this group in  one section of the dining room the night before.  I feel terrible making them take the tables apart.  One server, David had guessed that I would come in and say the tables were in the wrong place and make them redo it.  He should have put money on it.

12:15  Liquor orders start coming in.  The fabulous wine that we have just started featuring as a special this month and the one our next week's sold out Wine Tasting is based on, was billed as out of stock.  I can't wait to see how my sales rep gets himself out of that mess.

12:30  Still working on Tarts, tarts and tarts.  When cool, I box them up with ribbons and bows and get them stashed in the downstairs cooler.

3:00  Kitchen staff comes in.  I have another new person on the salad station and this is his first cooking job. This is traditionally called a chef de partie, ( a chef of a station ) I still have to go over the list of what needs to be prepared and how much.  He has been my dishwasher for a while and at least he knows where things are.  But he's VERY green.  I work with him for about an hour.  He works the slower nights in the restaurant.

4:00  Power surge shuts down all the computers and sends one of the terminals into a funk.  Reboots OK though.  Worked phones while my manager restocked liquor.  Received many requests for gift certificates which had to be written up, rung up and mailed.

4:30  Work with waiters to get the tables taken apart and reset on the deck.  Hassled them about time management and details in the set up.  Sometimes they start talking and socializing and don't concentrate.

5:00  Place last minute meat order for the weekend.  Check stock in walk-ins.  Check line and set up of cooks.  Mel is staying with me to help put out with the party of 21.  I love this guy.

5:30  Open for service.  Go back to the office to print menus for the party.  It's a wine pairing dinner with lots of options and different wines suggested for each menu choice.  It's a bear.

6:30  Place produce and fish orders for next day.  Go through mail.  Answer emails.  Take more pantry orders for next week.  Coordinate production of a large batch of Beef Bourguignon going out as special orders next weekend and then a large batch to be made next Sunday for delivery at a church on Christmas Day for the homeless.

7:00 Party sits down and work begins.

9:30  Tidy up walk-ins.  Check orders.  Leave notes for Sous Chef, who is off on Thursdays.  Drink a vodka and go home. 

November 17, 2007

Cocktail Menus

We've been working on a new fall cocktail menu.  I remember when I didn't have to bother with these things, but when I  introduced our first list about 2 years ago, our liquor sales went up by 30%.

So each day, my manager and I have been making and drinking cocktails.  Lots and lots of cocktails.  It sounds like fun until you are trying to differentiate between 2 and 2 1/4 oz of pomegranate liquor and fiddling with different amounts of cointreau.  We scribble out one measurement and replace it with increasingly illegible notations.  If this were food, we'd just be getting fat, but now we're getting loaded. 

One time I did this, I go so blitzed I had to ask my husband to come pick me up from work.  Now we just start around 1:00 pm so we get drunk, struggle through the afternoon and sober up in time for service.   It really is work.

It took us over two weeks.  But we're done!

November 15, 2007

Flowers anyone?

My manager wants to suggest the following when having flowers delivered to a restaurant:

  • A tall arrangement is fine if it's the last celebration before your divorce, but otherwise you will not be able to see your loved one over the flowers.  It will take up too much space on an intimate table for two and looks kind of funny.  She suggests letting the florist know that it's for a dinner table.  We've seem some beautiful arrangements come in the door.
  • We use Foxgloves and Ivy on St Charles Avenue in the Highlands.  Their number is 404-892-7272.
  • Avoid the Stargazer Lily unless it's your favorite.  The scent is deadly in a restaurant and will have other patrons complaining and asking to move away from your table.

November 12, 2007

An Afternoon in the Country

Last Sunday I joined many other chefs and participated in Les Dames d'Escoffier's annual fund raiser out at Serenbe in Palmetto, Georgia.  I prepared Duck Confit Hash with Dried Cherries.  These fund raisers are a lot of work but good for the soul.  My daughter came to help and I also enlisted Kelly Kline, who was my chef de cuisine for 7 1/2 years.   She is currently a stay at home mom and I think she enjoyed getting out as much as I enjoyed having her with me again.

Chef Marla

  • Chef Marla Adams
    I'll make this short. I began cooking on a lark in 1980 at a restaurant in Boston. I had graduated from The University of Virginia and was a little burned out. I took a bakery job for $3.50 an hour (in Boston, mind you) and have never left the restaurant business. I LOVE IT. I love the hours, the pace, the people, the food, the challenges and working with my hands and brain at the same time. Food is a craft. It's real and it's essential to everyone. Most of all, I love cooks: line cooks, prep cooks, chefs, sous chefs, all of them. They are a very unique group of people. After a few years I attended the Culinary Institute of American in Hyde Park and upon graduation, headed to Atlanta with a boyfriend. The boyfriend didn't last, but I'm still in Atlanta. There was never a shortage of jobs, and I moved quickly up the ranks in several restaurants and even a hotel. Upon reaching a glass ceiling in one position, in 1992 I decided to open my own place, Babette's Cafe. And here I am......

Babette's Cafe

  • Babette's Cafe
    I opened Babette's Cafe in 1992 and in 2001 after renovating a 1916 bungalow, moved my restaurant to "her" current home.
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